| Author |
Message |
    
Mark Gordon
Member
Username: mark_gordon
Post Number: 136
Registered: 09-2002
| | Posted on Wednesday, April 7, 2004 - 07:54 pm: | 
|
Good pics C.B. Better than mine. The O ring doesn't slid onto the had grip but it "rolls" very easily from not engaged to engaged. Every now and then I clean the O ring with Mineral Spirits and the grip stays good for years.
CB Do you use this O ring or have you gone to the electronic type cruise control? |
C. B. Shahan
Site sponsor
Username: cbwilsha
Post Number: 977
Registered: 07-2002
| | Posted on Wednesday, April 7, 2004 - 08:13 pm: |
|
Actually Mark, I don't use any type of cruise control. A friend sent me the O ring but it doesn't work for me. I have Johar foam grips and when I engage the O ring by rolling it on, I have great difficulty rolling it back off. And if I have a problem rolling it off in the garage with bare hands, I hate to think what would happen if I was driving down the road. So I have never even tried it out on the road.
C.B. |
John Faulkner
Intermediate Member
Username: halfwing
Post Number: 462
Registered: 10-2003
| | Posted on Wednesday, April 7, 2004 - 09:00 pm: |
|
I have to agree with Reg on the throttle lock. I have the Throttlemeister and it's good for giving yourself a break, but it's nothing like having an electronic cruise control monitoring and adjusting to keep an even speed.
Just in case no one noticed, this thread is now over 30 posts and we're still on topic. What is going on here?
 |
Rolando Kleen
Junior Member
Username: rkleen
Post Number: 24
Registered: 11-2003
| | Posted on Wednesday, April 7, 2004 - 11:48 pm: |
|
John:
Guess this is a topic were everybody have the right solution according his habit and style... no more, no less.
Meanwhile I have know my O ring and going to try it... this time I am not going to get back with feedback due to the variety of opinions.
Thank to all. |
Dean Utendorf
Site sponsor
Username: utendorf
Post Number: 283
Registered: 02-2003
| | Posted on Thursday, April 8, 2004 - 12:41 am: |
|
Well, I've narrowed my problem down to electrical...not vacuum. I tee'd a vacuum guage in at the servo and I'm pulling about 10-13 inches, and due to the check valve, it holds solid after I shut the bike down.
I've tried various DIP settings that other users have had success with, but none seem to work. This is weird that these units seem to react differently to the same switch settings !
I soldered to one of the blue coil leads, so I know there's good contact there. I measured the rest of the signals at the connector and they all check out. But when I press the SET button, I can feel it try to grab, but it doesn't hold.
Looks like I may have to go with the mag pickup method
Dean |
Dean Utendorf
Site sponsor
Username: utendorf
Post Number: 284
Registered: 02-2003
| | Posted on Thursday, April 8, 2004 - 12:49 am: |
|
Does anyone know if there's a difference between the blue coil leads, that could be causing this issue?
Dean |
Reg Siemens
Site sponsor
Username: reg_siemens
Post Number: 282
Registered: 07-2003
| | Posted on Thursday, April 8, 2004 - 04:16 am: |
|
FWIW I used the Yellow w/blue stripe (NOT the Blue w/yellow stripe) |
George R
Site sponsor
Username: george_r
Post Number: 55
Registered: 12-2003
| | Posted on Thursday, April 8, 2004 - 04:20 pm: |
|
Gents:
My anger with myself about this whole thing is cooling down again so I'm ready to go at it again. "Hate it when a plan DOESN'T come together!!"
Reg:
To get the "piggy back" like you ask, I tapped a 6-32 hole in the little "nub" that the cable connects to. I then used a "case hardened" Allen screw with locktite and one of the adapters that come with the kit. Because I am having problems getting it to even start to pull I'm not really too sure there is enough leverage, but I "think" there may be. Now that it is raining and cold again I'm gonna take off some "tupperware" and go at it again with some of the suggestions you guys have made here. If it doesnt work this time Im going to join Steven D and install the magnets.
|
Reg Siemens
Site sponsor
Username: reg_siemens
Post Number: 284
Registered: 07-2003
| | Posted on Thursday, April 8, 2004 - 07:27 pm: |
|
George: If your throttle connection works, it's pretty elegant in that you wouldn't have to remove the carbs or tank to tap that cable 'nub'. I'm hoping you'll have enough pull-strength without the mechanical advantage of a fulcrum lever and that small changes in the servo position won't translate into huge throttle changes which might result in really aggressive pulling on activation or worse...surging. Just a thought...could it be that the cruise logic is in fact sensing too quick an RPM spike for a small amount of servo pull and is bailing out because it thinks it's lost traction?
Installing the pickup and magnets was one of the easier parts of my installation, so here's hoping your almost done! Be sure to let us know how you make out. |
Dean Utendorf
Site sponsor
Username: utendorf
Post Number: 286
Registered: 02-2003
| | Posted on Thursday, April 8, 2004 - 07:51 pm: |
|
Reg/George,
I was able to get mine working today! My connection to the bellcrank is similar in function/location to George's and it seems to pull fine with no surging. Details later...
Dean |
Steven D. Frierson
Member
Username: sfrierson
Post Number: 84
Registered: 06-2002
| | Posted on Thursday, April 8, 2004 - 11:59 pm: |
|
Yea, mine cable is looped over the idle stop on the crank bell, which is on a slightly less plane as the throttle cables. I routed my cruise cable to be at approximately 120 degrees of where I hooked it to the crank bell, so it would be at about 90 degrees of it at cruising speed (50 - 80 mph). My ride to work consists of about 15 hills about 3/4 miles apart from each other, and the cruise keeps the speed within 3 mph of setpoint.
Not the putiest set up, but trouble free for five years! (But I do like George's set-up better, even though I ain't quite shore how he done it!)
(Message edited by sfrierson on April 9, 2004) |
George R
Site sponsor
Username: george_r
Post Number: 56
Registered: 12-2003
| | Posted on Friday, April 9, 2004 - 12:21 am: |
|
Dean:
Details, details, details,,,,,,,,,,,Ya know? Like George tells Jerry Seinfeld when he gets a little..
What did you end up with on the dip settings and which coil wire did you use?
Your definitely "The Man" !!!! |
George R
Site sponsor
Username: george_r
Post Number: 57
Registered: 12-2003
| | Posted on Friday, April 9, 2004 - 12:33 am: |
|
Steven:
I wish I would have thought of doing that. Looks like a very good connection to me. What program are you using that you can write on the pictures, thats cool.
Reg:
I was told over 40 years ago when I was on apprenticeship that Tool and Diemakers are the laziest people on earth because they find the easiest way to do things. I guess that is a permanent condition even after your retired. I couldn't stand the idea of taking the carbs off after having done that to rejet the ones on my Magna a two years ago. These sure look about the same with those damn little rubber cylinders for manifolds. Still better than working on a Chevy and a lot better than a Harley,,,,,,, Oooops there I go again being politically INcorrect |
Dean Utendorf
Site sponsor
Username: utendorf
Post Number: 288
Registered: 02-2003
| | Posted on Friday, April 9, 2004 - 02:09 am: |
|
George,
Here’s what I did today:
Moved the red wire directly to battery +….no change.
Tee’d the vacuum of all 4 cylinders together…..no change.
Installed a vacuum reservoir….no change.
These last two steps did help keep the available vacuum level up during acceleration, though, and I may install yet a larger vacuum reservoir.
So, I resorted to installing the magnet and pickup setup. I used 6 rare-earth magnets that I obtained from some old computer hard drives (very strong). And mounted the pickup to the bottom of the swingarm. With the DIP switches set properly for the speed sensor system, and the little black jumper removed (for the manual tranny), I set out to try it. Nothing! So I replaced the black jumper and set out again….success!
I wish I had an easy fix for running on the tach wire alone, but I couldn’t get it to work, no matter what I did. And with the magnetic pickup system, it doesn’t seem to work with the jumper removed either….strange.
With the current setup, I took several rides running errands this afternoon and it worked flawlessly. This evening, as I was running another errand I brought her up to speed and hit the set button. It accelerated fairly hard until about 65mph then dropped down to 55, then back up to 65, cycling between the two. I’m not sure what this is all about, since nothing was modified between then and now, vacuum leak maybe? I guess I’ll check all my connections tomorrow.
Here's my throttle connection:
Dean
|
George R
Site sponsor
Username: george_r
Post Number: 58
Registered: 12-2003
| | Posted on Friday, April 9, 2004 - 01:55 pm: |
|
Dean:
Again, Your the Man!!! Im gonna put settings back to what the book calls for, put the jumper back on, and the magnetic pick up in too. You can't see it under the bags anyhow and I'm tired of trying to do something that most others say can't be done. Thanks.
Is that called taking a bite of "Humble Pie"? |
Dean Utendorf
Site sponsor
Username: utendorf
Post Number: 289
Registered: 02-2003
| | Posted on Friday, April 9, 2004 - 06:15 pm: |
|
George,
I reduced to 3 magnets, pushed the pickup a little closer to the magnets, and left the switches at 4000ppm; and it seems to be a little smoother now on the engagement. Maybe it's my imagination...
Originally, I had the controls mounted on the lefthand fairing below the ABS/TSC switches, but that seemed a little awkward to operate. Now they're mounted above the kill switch near the throttle.
Dean |
Dean Utendorf
Site sponsor
Username: utendorf
Post Number: 290
Registered: 02-2003
| | Posted on Friday, April 9, 2004 - 08:39 pm: |
|
The cruise seems much more stable now with 3 magnets, all arranged in the same polarity. When I had the 6 on originally, I'm not sure if they were oriented the same way.
Here's my DIP switch settings:
1 on
2 off
3 on
4 on
5 off
6 off
7 on
and the little black jumper is in place because it didn't work with the jumper removed....go figure.
Dean |
Steven D. Frierson
Member
Username: sfrierson
Post Number: 85
Registered: 06-2002
| | Posted on Saturday, April 10, 2004 - 05:35 am: |
|
Dean, now that you mention the magnets, that got me thinking about the relationship of magnets to the ppm setting, which is critical (which I forgot to explain in my Word Document). You are exactly right, the amount of magnets affects the operation of the cruise if they don't match the ppm settings. I used just two at 180 degrees apart and a ppm setting of 2000. The reason being is that with the tire diameter of 22" (16" rims with 3" of tire hieght each side), the distance traveled for 1 rotation would be 5.76 feet (pi (3.142) times the diameter (22") divided by 12 (to convert to feet). At a stable 60 mph, one would travel 1 mile in 1 minute. With a mile being 5280 feet, in one minute at 60 mph, the tire would make 917 rotations (5280 divided by 5.76). With two magnets, you would get 1834 pulse per minute, thus the 2000 setpoint I used. With 3 magnets, 2750 ppm. Four magnets. 3667 ppm, etc. With your original 6 magnets, an 8000 ppm setting may have worked well (7336 ppm), but I'm not crazy about a lot of magnets. To me, the fewer, the better. To me, the more the magnets, the more the chance to miss a signal. Also, make sure the sensor is within 1/2" of the magnets to ensure a good signal. I've got mine at about 1/4".
George, I use "PhotoImpact" to doctor my photos. |
George R
Site sponsor
Username: george_r
Post Number: 59
Registered: 12-2003
| | Posted on Saturday, April 10, 2004 - 03:31 pm: |
|
Dean/Steven:
The location of the "control" looks right at home. Almost looks like it is a factory option, really like it. I copied both of your last posts and am printing them as I type. Why can't a big company like AudioVox give this detail of instructions? Even to put one in a car their instructions just don't cut it. Maybe thats why we can buy them so Cheap. 
Ive got a copy of Paint Shop Pro, Im gonna have to try that with it. Those additions to a photo sure makes things easier to understand.
Can't say enough good about this kind of help, sure hope sometime I can come up with something to repay. Thanks guys.
Oh, by the way for Rolondo who started this thread,,,,,,,,,Thanks too, and it looks like it WILL work. |
Michael J. Moore
Site sponsor
Username: maxpower
Post Number: 1390
Registered: 07-2002
| | Posted on Friday, April 30, 2004 - 11:27 pm: |
|
Guys, here's a thought for the speed sensor signal: I needed to pick up a VSS signal to provide to my GPS (a Garmin 2650), because this particular GPS has an acoustical gyro in it that, combined with VSS input, will allow the unit to continue to navigate accurately even when the satellite signals have been lost due to forests, urban canyons, tunnels, etc.
Anyway, after a lot of thinking, I decided to tap into the output from the Hall effect sensor that is used on the front wheel for the ABS/TCS system. A close look at the wiring diagram of the ABS system (not the overall bike wiring diagram, but the ABS and TCS diagrams in the Honda manual) showed that the signal from the front wheel is sent to both the TCS system and the ABS system. So, I spliced into the lead that runs to the TCS (didn't want to piss around with the ABS), and I got a good solid signal that my GPS is quite happy with.
The cog wheel on the front wheel has 120 notches in it, which means that it is a fairly high frequency at high speeds (I have seen it over 3,000 Hz on the GPS debugging screen). Not sure if the cruise control could handle this frequency or not, but the GPS certainly can. If the cruise control can handle this frequency, you will certainly have enough granularity for smooth and accurate operation of the servo.
Michael
Where to tap in to get a VSS signal from an ABS equipped ST1100
(I'm pretty sure it's the front one of these two components, but double-check in your wiring diagram before you go cutting. These components are located just inboard of the right hand side rear view mirror.
 |
|
Closed: New threads not accepted on this page
