| Author |
Message |
    
Reg Siemens
New member
Username: reg_siemens
Post Number: 7
Registered: 07-2003
| | Posted on Wednesday, August 20, 2003 - 04:53 am: | 
|
Hey all,
Just came back from my first test run after installing a fully electronic cruise control in my '93 ST and guess what...it worked!!! The Cycle Cruise was a little rich for my pocket book and I wasn't keen on using a vacuum based unit so I took a calculated gamble on a Rostra Global Cruise unit which is fully electronic and requires no vacuum to operate. I've taken a bunch of pictures to document the installation and I was wondering if there was enough interest for me to create a simple web-page documenting this project?
FYI, the Global Cruise unit (including a very compact, nice looking switch and auxilliary pulse generator) sells for under CDN$400 which should be around US$250. Compared to the CDN$900 Cycle Cruise price tag, this was an experiment I was willing to try and I'm very pleased with the result. |
Brian Tinkler
Junior Member
Username: tinks_st
Post Number: 17
Registered: 04-2003
| | Posted on Wednesday, August 20, 2003 - 07:12 pm: |
|
I for one would be interested in seeing your photos.
TINK |
Mike Cady
Junior Member
Username: soggybike
Post Number: 14
Registered: 03-2003
| | Posted on Thursday, August 21, 2003 - 02:39 am: |
|
I'd like more info also. Especially details on hookup and parts needed. Thanks |
Trev Bachelder
Site sponsor
Username: trev_bachelder
Post Number: 17
Registered: 04-2003
| | Posted on Thursday, August 21, 2003 - 09:10 pm: |
|
Ditto for me. I'm very interested in the product and would love to see some photos detailing what's involved with the installation. |
Car Salesman
Junior Member
Username: carsalesman
Post Number: 18
Registered: 04-2002
| | Posted on Friday, August 22, 2003 - 02:00 am: |
|
Reg: How did you attach the cruise control throttle cable to the throttle plates? Likewise, how did you fasten the cable exterior, so that it does not move?
From my casual observation, those seem to be the major obstacles. |
Reg Siemens
New member
Username: reg_siemens
Post Number: 9
Registered: 07-2003
| | Posted on Friday, August 22, 2003 - 04:04 am: |
|
Hi all,
I have created a document and emailed it to those who've specifically expressed interest. I thought I'd be able to put it up on some spare web-space but it turns out my ISP changed the rules and didn't tell me so I'll have to find some alternate method.
Specifically in response to Car Salesmen: I connected the cruise throttle cable to the throttle cam by way of a fabricated lever that I bolted to the stock throttle cam. The cruise throttle cable case was anchored to another fabricated bracket that I mounted to the frame cross-member between the carbs and the gas tank. I have a fair bit of details (including photos) in my document that I'd gladly email to those who're interested.
Some day I'll figure out how to format messages on this discussion forum to include pictures!
Reg Siemens |
Bill Jump
New member
Username: bill_jump
Post Number: 1
Registered: 05-2003
| | Posted on Friday, August 22, 2003 - 04:17 am: |
|
Well then I guess I should express my interest as well. I've been hoping to read of your experiences also. |
Reg Siemens
Junior Member
Username: reg_siemens
Post Number: 11
Registered: 07-2003
| | Posted on Friday, August 22, 2003 - 05:01 am: |
|
Global Cruise Installation in ST1100
Who am I?
My name is Reg Siemens and I’m a 40-something Security System business-owner in mid-life crisis that after a twenty year hiatus from motorcycling bought a used ‘93 ST1100 about two years ago and have been enjoying the stress-relief of riding ever since. While I’m somewhat mechanically minded and have a reasonable assortment of tools, I was an accountant before starting my alarm business 16 years ago and am NOT nor have I ever been a mechanic. In order to provide a little perspective on my attitude - I will tackle most things – I have rebuilt a few engines (lawnmower thru’ V8) and have even tackled automatic transmissions (they worked BTW) so before you consider this project, know that while I don’t consider this rocket-science, it’s not for the faint-of-heart and as with all things motorcycle-related, safety of any modification is a critical consideration, so check and double-check everything you do and torque and Locktite absolutely everything and above all – use this for what it’s worth – a history of my experience. Evaluate for yourself whether this is a safe thing to tackle for your purposes – as always – YMMV and I take no responsibility for the correctness or suitability of the following information to your specific application. (enough fine-print – let’s get on with things…)
Overview
Living in Winnipeg, Canada (bald, flat prairie for those who still think all Canadians live in igloos eating seals and polar bears) means that I have a few miles to travel before getting into some nice riding. So inevitably the days are long. Just shy of 900 miles in 14 hours is my current best/worst day depending on how you look at it. Those long rides beg for real cruise control and since I ride with Harleys, Ventures and Goldwings, a simple throttle-lock was a pain when you’re constantly correcting to maintain speed as you come into the hilly, fun terrain which is inevitably the destination of choice. So I started looking for cruise control and considered the Australian MotorCycle Cruise (very good BTW from most accounts, however a tad rich for my pocketbook), the Audiovox vacuum cruise (cheap, but some drawbacks…more on that later) and one or two other brands. Ultimately I decided on the Rostra Global Cruise for the following reasons:
1. Vacuumless – no tapping into vacuum lines potentially altering carb synch – no reserve canister required to increase vacuum (typically required by most small engines to generate adequate vacuum to pull cruise cable) – stronger pull strength of electric servo vs. vacuum (I’d heard from other marginally successful attempts at installing the Audiovox vacuum cruise that precise cable routing/pull angles etc. were required in order to get the vacuum operated cruise to pull firmly enough even after vacuum canister installation)
2. Universal in design – it seemed to have the most flexibility with regards to gain adjustment, pulses per mile etc. of any other brand that I looked at
3. Compatible with auxiliary signal generator – many other cruise controls only work when installed on a vehicle with a factory VSS output (Vehicle Speed Sensor) – obviously the ST has no such output and required the additional signal generator
4. Compact switch design – Rostra offers many different switch options and knowing that it could use an assortment of normally open or closed switch configurations gave me comfort in knowing I could find a guaranteed waterproof solution if the Rostra switch caused problems down the road.
5. 3-year warranty – gotta love that – there’s not many aftermarket automotive electrical products that come with a 3 year warranty!
Here’s what appears to be a news release describing the Rostra Global Cruise:
Rostra Offers Aftermarket Global Cruise Control System
Laurinburg, NC Rostra Precision Controls Inc., the largest aftermarket manufacturer of cruise controls, has added the Global Cruise Control System to its line of aftermarket cruise systems.
The demand for aftermarket cruise control components is growing, said Thomas Weiss, Rostra's vice president, automotive electronics group. “The number of cars manufactured with cruise controls hasn't changed in 10 years,” Weiss said. “But most people don't realize that 15 percent of all new vehicles do not come from the factory with cruise control. The Rostra Global Cruise system is the perfect answer to consumers who want to add cruise to their vehicles, but didn't think it was possible.”
Global Cruise has all the benefits of original equipment products as well as some additional features. It is lightweight and electric, and requires no engine vacuum. Designed with 10 programming switches, the unit is fully programmable, allowing it to fit on more vehicle models, including small gasoline engines and diesel-powered vehicles.
The Global Cruise system works with both open and closed circuit engagement switches. It is compatible with three-, four-, five-, six- or eight-cylinder vehicles and also works with distributorless as well as direct-fire ignition systems.
Additional improvements include functions that allow drivers to tap up or tap down to adjust speed 1 mph per tap, as well as closer, more accurate control of set speed. In addition, single unit mounting and a smaller module provide ease of installation. It also is a suitable replacement for many factory cruise systems.
Rostra's Global Cruise system retails for $300, and is backed with a three-year limited warranty, for years of trouble-free service.
Rostra Precision Controls, headquartered in Laurinburg, North Carolina, is the leading supplier of vehicle speed control systems, transmission components and vehicle comfort seating systems to the global automotive aftermarket industry. The company also is a leading manufacturer of the Rostra Obstacle Sensing System, and of electronic controls, systems and components for the original equipment automotive industry.
Rostra Precision Control1-800-782-3379www.rostra.com
Items required
- Rostra Global Cruise 250-1223, Rostra Switch 250-3084 and Rostra signal generator kit 250-4165 - total investment CDN$389 plus taxes
-for further information on the Global Cruise you can download their full installation manual at:
http://www.rostra.com/pdf/4393.pdf
-additional stuff used to customize the installation:
2 - Amseco aluminum brackets for fabrication of throttle lever and cruise cable mounting brackets - these are made of aluminum stock approximately 1/8” thick and are very shapeable and yet provide good rigidity when stressed sideways.
http://www.midsouthcable.com/AmsecoBrackets.htm
6 - GRI MM400 rare-earth magnets
http://www.grisk.com/accessories/rare_earth_magnets.htm
Because my business is selling and installing alarm systems, we had both the above items on hand and they seemed ideal for the task at hand so I used them. Both the brackets and the rare-earth magnets should be available from your local security system dealer or on the web or give me a shout if you want me to send you some
1 – 8mm extended length axle bolt, washers and nut (from good hardware store)
4 – machine bolts and nuts to mount cam lever and cable bracket
-tools and supplies required – typical hand tools, drill, vise (for shaping brackets), hack-saw, soldering iron, tie-wraps, electrical tape, shrink-tubing, etc.
Disassembly
-in preparation, remove the following:
-saddlebags, seat, side covers, top shelter, engine inspection covers, fairing side pockets
-remove air filter cover, air filter and lower air filter housing (can be lifted off with carbs in place)
AND now the first scary part:
- remove the entire carb assembly – this sounds harder than it is but essentially means disconnecting the choke and throttle cables and then loosening four hose clamps and the whole assembly lifts off the bike (remember to stuff clean rags into the intake holes while removed)
Attaching cruise cable to throttle
BTW this is the most time-intensive, finicky, SCARY part of the whole installation and I resigned myself to doing it this way only after much hesitation and consideration. The Global Cruise is designed for automotive applications and has a cruise cable travel distance of 41mm (1 5/8”). The ST by contrast uses about ¾” of cable travel to go from idle stop to full throttle. On vehicles with less than 41mm travel Rostra recommends installing spacer beads to avoid damage to the cruise unit or the throttle linkage. I was uncomfortable following this advise for a couple of reasons:
1. All that added slack in the cruise cable is just rattling around waiting to snag on something with potentially disastrous results.
2. Only using ¾” of throttle cable travel from idle to full-on would mean that extremely small cruise cable adjustments would translate into significant speed changes for the ST i.e. the cruise unit would have a tendency to be very aggressive in speed corrections and likely result in surging
Both of the above aren’t good, so the only solution I could come up with (aside from paying a machinist big bucks to make up a throttle cable interface unit ala Australian MotorCycle Cruise) was to put a lever onto the stock throttle cam that would extend the length of travel. After multiple failed variations I came up with a bracket that would work and resulted in cruise cable travel of approximately 2” (see photo)
Using aluminum stock or alarm bracket http://www.midsouthcable.com/AmsecoBrackets.htm cut and shape the throttle extension lever as pictured – the length and bends in this lever are very critical as there are numerous space restrictions and many adjacent components, hoses, etc. that this lever obviously needs to stay clear of in order to provide unrestricted travel from idle thru’ full throttle and also not snag on anything. Once you’ve got your lever prep’d you will need to drill mounting holes thru both the lever and the throttle cam. These holes are used to bolt the fabricated lever to the stock ST throttle cam. You will want to mark these very carefully and center punch them prior to drilling. You need to drill far enough out from the center of the cam to avoid hitting the return-spring on the backside, but not so far out that you drill into the channel that the stock cable sits in. You also need to be sure you are drilling the upper hole to the right of the stop tab so you can in fact put a nut on the back of the machine bolt. Check and re-check prior to drilling.
Secure the lever with machine screws and nuts (again locktite everything)
Because of the installation of the extended throttle lever, the lower portion of the air cleaner pick-up snorkel had to be trimmed (see photo). To ensure similar air-flow for both carb banks I made the decision to trim the right side equally. I probably had to cut back about ¾” from the side and I tapered it down to the center portion (bottom of the taper) which is untrimmed.
Anchoring cruise cable
Make up lever per photo – again I used http://www.midsouthcable.com/AmsecoBrackets.htm
Cable mounting bracket is secured to frame cross-member as close to left side of cross-member as possible (see picture below). The frame is square tubing at this point and I drilled right through the square tube and secured it with a machine bolt and nut (locktite of course)
above photo taken from left side of bike – frame cross-member between carbs and gas tank
above photo taken from left side of bike looking forward showing bracket mounted on cross-frame
above photo showing carbs re-installed, choke and stock cables reconnected, cruise control lever and cable mount in it’s final location – note a desirable amount of free-play in cruise cable with carbs against idle stop
Eyelet, bead-chain connector and cable flag-nut all come with cruise kit. Threads are added to exterior plastic of cruise cable housing by running down a nut (supplied in kit) before replacing it with flag-nut – this makes for very simple free-play adjustments
Reg Siemens
(cont'd on future message 1 of 2) |
Reg Siemens
Junior Member
Username: reg_siemens
Post Number: 12
Registered: 07-2003
| | Posted on Friday, August 22, 2003 - 05:18 am: |
|
Cont'd from previous message 2 of 2
Installing speed sensor & magnets
-Rostra 250-4165 CDN$49
I used the “universal throttle anchor bracket” that came with the Global cruise kit to mount the speed sensor on the rear axle. The bracket is simply cut to length after putting a 90 degree bend to orient the pickup so that it faces the brake rotor. Bend the contour of the bracket to follow the swing arm as shown in the photo below. The original axle pinch bolt is removed (and not reinstalled) and is replaced with a longer 8mm bolt purchased from a hardware store. Install the new bolt, washer, bracket and two more washers from under side and torque to spec. (27 newton meters). Then install a washer, lock-washer and nut on the top side and again torque to same spec. Notice abundant locktite again in photo below. I also installed two tie-wraps around the swing arm and thru’ the bracket to ensure it doesn’t loosen up and swing into the rotor. One additional tie-wrap close to the pinch bolt snugs it up further so there’s no vibration etc.
The Global cruise kit comes with 4 magnets which might have worked but for ease of positioning them symmetrically and in an attempt to give the cruise control a little more feedback I installed six rare earth magnets right next to heads of each rotor bolt. Close-up below. These magnets are made by a company called GRI with details at the following website:
http://www.grisk.com/accessories/rare_earth_magnets.htm
These magnets are incredible for their size and in fact are hard to re-position once they’ve sucked themselves onto the rotor. For my test-run I didn’t even bother securing them and I went for about a 10 mile highway ride and they hadn’t moved a millimeter. They come with high-quality 3M double sided adhesive pads which I’ve since installed. Obviously you want to secure the magnets where they will pass directly opposite the pickup sensor. I likely have about 3/8” airspace between pickup and magnets.
As mentioned in my reasoning for selecting the Rostra’s cruise control, the control unit is very flexible. They accommodate many different pulse settings and in order to configure the dip switches on the cruise correctly, I needed to do some calculations. I measured the circumference of the rear tire (MEZ4’s - superb tire BTW) which is 80”. With 6 magnets mounted on the rotor that means it will generate one pulse per 1.111111 feet, which means around 4,750 pulses per mile (5280 feet per mile divided by 1.1111111). So I decided to set the cruise to 4000 pulses per mile…but a little more on that later.
Mounting cruise module
In contrast to the MotorCycle Cruise and other vacuum based units, the Global Cruise uses a combined computer/servo…everything is in one neat box. The unit fits inside the tailpiece with considerable room to spare and a single tie-wrap thru’ the side frame of the tail-piece holds the unit firmly in place. Honda tool pouch still fits and there’s room for a few other items e.g. leatherman, bungie cords, tie-wraps etc. Seat fits on without any interference.
BTW, the black cord coming into the tail-piece from the upper left side of the photo is for my Givi trunk brake light (not cruise related)
Rostra tech support was WONDERFUL…I only phoned them once, but they were very accommodating and seemed genuinely intrigued by the possibility of having their cruise control installed on a motorcycle. I called to obtain a little more detail on the impact of the different jumper settings. Based on the information they provided and the calculations that I had done on pulse settings, the unit worked exactly as expected on my first test drive (more on that later as well).
Here’s the jumper settings that I used:
1,2-off
3-on
4,5,6,-off
7-on
8,9,10,11-off
12-on
The above dip-switch settings configure the unit to; extra low gain (required because of high power to weight ratio of ST), 4000 pulses per mile, 4 cylinder, signal generator input, manual transmission (will disengage with over-rev) and closed circuit switch
Wiring connections required
-switched auxiliary power +12V (took right from fuse block)
-ground (chassis)
-brake constant +12V (at brake switch on right side of bike – see photo below)
-brake switched +12V (at brake switch on right side of bike – see photo below)
above photo taken from right side of bike behind side-cover
-tach wire (tapped into coil wire - yellow with blue stripe above left side of rad)
-speed sensor (plugs into cruise harness)
-cruise switch (plugs into cruise harness)
Cruise switch installation
-used Rostra 250-3084 mini-switch CDN$45
-applied silicone to back of switch to try and waterproof
-mounted with double-sided tape between kill-switch and starter button
I will permanently mount the switch once I’ve determined that this switch is not affected by moisture. Should moisture be a problem, the switch is a simple closed circuit design which could be replaced with waterproof fairing mounted switches if required.
Testing
Before I buttoned this thing all back up and became my own guinea pig (or test pilot depending on what went wrong), I wanted to test basic operation as best as possible, so I fired it up on the center stand. As expected I could get the cruise to engage when the rear wheel speed was adequate, however it quickly bailed because the over-rev-auto-shutdown feature kept kicking in because the bike wasn’t under load. To further test the cruise, I disconnected the tach wire (which is how the cruise unit senses the over-rev) and then checked operation to ensure that the OFF switch was working and that the cruise would in fact disengage when either brake lever was activated. It all worked as expected so armed with the knowledge that the cruise was engaging and was in fact pulling the throttle linkage properly at the outset (till the over-rev protection kicked in) and that I could and would be able to disengage the cruise if it malfunctioned, I had the comfort I needed to go for a real road test. So I reassembled what was necessary, however being the doubter of my own abilities that I am, I left all the plastic off and just tried to button things down as best as I could. Important note – if any of you try this, make sure you secure the clip-on wire nuts for the various fairing fasteners – these can and will vibrate loose and fall off – a lesson learned from a previous “sans Tupperware” trip to a mechanic’s home to use his carb synch tool.
Result
I headed out onto the highway to test things out. Took the ST up to about 50mph and I moved the cruise switch to the “ON” position and the backlighting came on…Oooohhhh….Ahhhhhhh!!!…smile starts appearing on my face. I push the switch to the SET position, release the throttle and low and behold the bike stays at 50mph (smile is now so big my cheeks are nearly pushing open the visor on my full-face helmet!). I can sense no surging at all (my biggest fear). I then push the cruise switch to ACCEL and it starts to pull (firmly but not too agressively) and stays at the speed that I release it at. Ride towards the closest hilly highway (no small feat in the Central plains of Canada) and set the cruise again at 50mph and ride up and down a few hills…the Global Cruise kept speed within about 2 mph (which is exactly what Global Cruise says to expect) and roll-off and roll-on were very smooth (smile gets even bigger). I then took the ST up to 75mph, hit SET and it again held the speed as expected. Next I turn into a provincial park with a 40mph speed limit and figured, what the heck, let’s push the limits! With the bike still in 4th gear at 40mph I set the cruise and as I kind of expected I could feel some surging. Shifted up into 5th and got it to a comfortable rpm where it’s not lugging (around 50mph) and it was rock steady again. So bottom line…it’s all that I had hoped it might be and I’m still having a hard time wiping that smile off my face!
Now all that’s left to do is clean up the wiring (I bought 3/8” plastic wiring loom from Home Depot) and button it all back together!
Here’s hoping that the above can be of benefit to some fellow ST riders! Drop me a line if you have any further questions or suggestions on clarifying any of the above.
Take care and ride safe!
Reg Siemens
regsiemens@hotmail.com |
Ron Wayden
Site sponsor
Username: rwayden
Post Number: 725
Registered: 07-2002
| | Posted on Friday, August 22, 2003 - 09:47 pm: |
|
FABULOUS WRITE-UP REG!!! Sounds like you got one heck of a system there!
.....I want one! |
DBartel STOC #3018 (Unregistered Guest)
Unregistered guest
Posted From: sdn-ap-019neomahp0069.dialsprint.net
| | Posted on Saturday, August 23, 2003 - 12:51 am: |
|
Reg,
You did a great presentation on the cruise setup. I installed an Audiovox unit on my ST about 2 years ago and use it almost every time I go for a ride. My installation is almost identical to yours except that I have a small vacuum can (pvc pipe). There is a dip swith to select "tach only" input source. This eliminated the need to use the magnets. I tried using the magnets and sensor system at first but the sensor bracket was almost impossible to keep tight and one day it caught the wheel. It operates great without the magnets. Why can't Honda install this at the factory? |
Mike Cady
Junior Member
Username: soggybike
Post Number: 15
Registered: 03-2003
| | Posted on Saturday, August 23, 2003 - 01:01 am: |
|
Excelllent job Reg. Clear yet detailed. Thanks. I've been looking for something more useful than the throttle lock I've got now on my 94. I had a cruise on a previous bike and it was invaluable on long days. Good for another 100 miles per day at least.
Does anyone know a dependable US supplier of Rostra equipment??
|
apejohn (Unregistered Guest)
Unregistered guest
Posted From: cache-ntc-aa10.proxy.aol.com
| | Posted on Saturday, August 23, 2003 - 06:53 am: |
|
Reg,
Brilliant, just brilliant post. I see scads of installation stuff in my end of the m/c business.
One of the key components of a great aftermarket part is either simple installation or outstanding instructions. You done well.
Now, patiently awaiting same for ST13. Enroute on 2,500 mile ride from LA to Humboldt with a banzai back from Grants Pass, OR in a day. Bummer, no cruise.
Sidebar - I really need this ride. No, I mean I Really need it. Need out of LA, got it?
What a gift we'all share, eh? Love riding.
John
APE-aperaceparts.com
Burbank |
Reg Siemens
Junior Member
Username: reg_siemens
Post Number: 13
Registered: 07-2003
| | Posted on Saturday, August 23, 2003 - 04:06 pm: |
|
So I have this perfect plan for the ST1300 cruise installation how-to...I hear Florida in February offers the ideal conditions for this type of project...I figure between tear-down, installation, testing, lots of testing, more testing, did I mention testing...it should take about 3 weeks...now all I need is an ST1300, a modest condo (by the beach 'cause I hear cruise controls do strange things in salty air so it only makes sense to test it in the "worst" conditions) for myself and my family of 4 mechanic's assistants and we can make this happen...don't all offer at once!!!
Reg Siemens |
Reg Siemens
Junior Member
Username: reg_siemens
Post Number: 14
Registered: 07-2003
| | Posted on Saturday, August 23, 2003 - 04:26 pm: |
|
Regarding where to buy Rostra, I don't imagine you'd have a hard time in the states (heck their based in NC) I had a couple of choices here locally and actually ended up buying it from a speed shop. Because it's vacuumless it is popular with rods and cars with aftermarket cams. A local shop that does automotive stereo and remote starter installations here also stocked the Global Cruise. Good places to start or check Rostra's distributor referral link at:
http://www.rostra.com/ac-distributors.asp
Reg |
Reg Siemens
Site sponsor
Username: reg_siemens
Post Number: 1150
Registered: 07-2003
| | Posted on Monday, November 14, 2005 - 05:38 am: |
|
Since my original post, I acquired a right hand Police switchgear assembly which has many additional switches and functions over the original. FWIW I've also seen this same switchgear installed on an ST1300. They periodically come up on Ebay and California Sport Touring has had them available.
Specifically, it has a 3-position slide switch (consisting of Off.1.2.3) which I'm using to operate my electronic cruise control and since I've had numerous individual requests for details on how I accomplished that, I thought I'd update the original thread.
The following is a rough drawing that I scratched out for myself. If anyone has Visio or some other drawing software, I'd gladly assist in making this more understandable.
The Rostra Cruise that I installed has the jumper selectable option of either normally open (N/O) or normally closed (N/C) switch control. I used normally open switching cause I thought it was simpler. If you're using the Audiovox I have no idea whether it has that same flexibility.
Here's the premise of the Rostra cruise control when set to NO switching:
-for the cruise to function i.e. master power switch, the RED wire (power) needed to be fed to the BROWN wire
-for SET/COAST function the RED wire (power) needs to be fed to the GREEN wire
-for RESUME/ACCEL function the RED wire (power) needs to be fed to the YELLOW wire
So I set it up so that 1 is SET/COAST, 2 is a neutral center position & 3 is RESUME/ACCEL. I ended up using switch 4 for the cruise on or off. See drawing above.
Here's the logic for why I used the switches in the configuration that I did...
-1 is not a momentary switch which means if I inadvertently left the switch at position 1, I didn't want it to be dangerous (e.g. accelerate function)
-3 is the only momentary switch so I used it for what might be dangerous i.e. resume/accelerate
-you can't cross the SET function as you go to RESUME or you'd simply set a new set point and your resume function would never work, so it made sense to me to use 2 as the resting position of the switch.
To explain my drawing a little bit...
-I used 3 SPDT relays to isolate each of the 3 switch functions and accomplish the SET/COAST & RESUME/ACCEL functions
-the 3 squares labeled 1,2,3 are the relays where:
+ = +12V trigger input for the relay coil
- = -12V input for the relay coil
C = Common terminal that alternates continuity to NC & NO
NO= Does not have continuity if the relay is not powered
NC= Has continuity when the relay is not powered
-the lower switches labeled 1,2,3,4 are the Police switches
Since I used switch 4 to provide full time power to the cruise when it's meant to operate I supplied cruise power to the one side of the switch and the other side connected to the CRUISE ON lead i.e. BROWN
The other 3 switches had +12V fed to one side with the other lead connected to the relay terminal as per the drawing. The SET/COAST & RESUME/ACCEL functions came off the relay outputs of relays 2 & 3 as noted on the drawing.
The relays that I used are about CDN $5 each and because they are used for switching purposes only, they have virtually no current carrying needs. I run an alarm business and we use these all the time in various applications. The following is a jpg of one that's been kicking around my shop for too long and looks a little beat up, but it will give you the general idea.
I had no problem fitting all these relays under the rubber that covers the switchgear connectors (under the air cleaner housing right behind the steering head bearing).
Hope this helps. I've used this switch configuration now for the entire season and am really pleased.
BTW since I installed and documented the above I've thought of a way to eliminate the need for tying up switch 4. If you installed another relay off of switch 1 which fed power to the brown cruise wire, this would provide the same functionality i.e. your cruise would lose all power when in the off position of the 0.1.2.3 and be on in all other positions.
Hope that makes sense. Fire away if you have any questions. |
Reg Siemens
Site sponsor
Username: reg_siemens
Post Number: 1152
Registered: 07-2003
| | Posted on Tuesday, November 15, 2005 - 06:44 pm: |
|
So Smarthound, who by the way hooked me up with my RH Police switchgear some time ago (thanks again), was kind enough to put together the following masterful schematic.
 |
Jason S
Advanced Member
Username: number9
Post Number: 542
Registered: 09-2004
| | Posted on Sunday, January 29, 2006 - 11:17 am: |
|
Hey Reg, in your pic above why is the 1/2" dia hose between the 2 & 4 carbs plugged off? Are these supposed to get plugged off with the de-PAIR? |
Reg Siemens
Site sponsor
Username: reg_siemens
Post Number: 1322
Registered: 07-2003
| | Posted on Sunday, January 29, 2006 - 04:35 pm: |
|
Jason - You had me head-scratching there for a while. No, it's not plugged, just swiveled up and the hose is not connected yet...see zoomed in version of same photo.
It just looks like it might be a cap since the part previously covered by the hose was clean and the back portion is dusty. While trial fitting the carbs to test the throttle lever and anchor point, I had the carbs on and off so many times checking full motion clearance, etc. that I didn't bother plugging everything back in until I was certain everything was as it would remain. |
Reg Siemens
Site sponsor
Username: reg_siemens
Post Number: 1685
Registered: 07-2003
| | Posted on Saturday, August 12, 2006 - 12:10 am: |
|
Just a further update to confirm that the relay configuration above can support the Cruise On function rather than using Switch 4 of the Police switchgear. Again Hound has provided a superb schematic as follows:
I wired things this way when installing the cruise on my newer 2000 ABS and it all functions as expected i.e.
Switch at off position - no power to cruise module
Switch at position 2 - cruise module has power and no commands are being sent to cruise module
Switch at position 1 - cruise module has power and is being sent a Set/Coast command
Switch at position 3 - cruise module has power and is being sent a Resume/Accel command
So when I want to use the cruise control, I slide the switch to 2. When I reach the desired cruise speed I momentarily slide it to position 1 and then back to 2...cruise control is set and maintains speed. Activate brake or clutch, cruise disengages, slide switch to 3 momentarily and cruise engages bringing the bike back to previous set speed. |
|
Closed: New threads not accepted on this page
